{"id":45435,"date":"2021-09-08T17:00:17","date_gmt":"2021-09-08T21:00:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/?p=45435"},"modified":"2023-05-06T17:58:36","modified_gmt":"2023-05-06T21:58:36","slug":"sailing-totem-uncertain-cruising-plans","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/story\/people\/sailing-totem-uncertain-cruising-plans\/","title":{"rendered":"Sailing Totem: Uncertain Cruising Plans"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A new chapter opened upon returning home to Totem<\/i> from a stateside road trip. There are some knowns; there are many uncertainties. The visits to hug family also compelled us to answer, \u201cWhat are your plans?\u201d many times. Ruminations on cruising plans for the South Pacific and Caribbean are below. But first: a catch up on our crew, with reflection on the therapeutic mix of good times and reconnections from miles north of the US\/Mexico border.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Family News<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

We got to see Niall! Our crew converged at my father\u2019s home on Bainbridge Island for a few precious days. Then Niall was off to Alaska to finish work with UnCruise Adventures. It\u2019s a boat kids dream job. In a few days, he\u2019ll be flying to Germany for a (senior year of college!) fall semester program.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"gnocchi\" <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n The \u201ckids\u201d made us gnocchi<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n
\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"UnCruise <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Niall with his mates on \u201cthe WAV,\u201d MV<\/em\n> Wilderness Adventurer: thanks to kaidiver for the shot!<\/span>\n kaidiver<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Our family reunion is a card tournament. Or is the card tournament a family reunion? Every July, save last year, we meet in Bellingham to play vicious games of Chicago Rummy. Cash is involved. So are margaritas!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Card <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n More cards with my father and brother. Travel highlights how bad my selfie\/groupie game is. I don\u2019t even have a game. But can play cards!<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

The event was fun as always, but too short, and left me sad that we didn\u2019t have more time with extended family. Not complaining though, because it sure beat the heck out of not seeing them. And my father now has his name inscribed on one of the perpetual trophies! Alas, it is the Turkey prize for last place. But many inscribed here are later on the perpetual winner\u2019s trophy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"winner\u2019s <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n His name, immortalized with the turkey<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

We played many rounds of cards (sense a theme?) at my dad\u2019s kitchen table. There was time to catch up with old friends, the kind where you can pick up again without skipping a beat. And I got to see my mother smile, even when I didn\u2019t hear my name.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Bonus visits touched every sense with the glorious Pacific Northwest summer: the looks and smells and tastes. My aunties in the San Juan islands welcomed us with Dungeness crab fresh from their traps. Paddling near their home, inhaling the briny low tide, I felt nostalgic for our years here. Jamie reminds me I like warm climates. It was strange wearing trousers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

On the way north, we routed via cousins in Salt Lake City, and cruising friends in Idaho.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

The road back was via my Aunt & Uncle (and more cousins) in Bend. I am grateful for the time and the hugs and the reconnecting. It\u2019s hard to get enough. Uncle Niall – yes, Niall\u2019s namesake – is 98, and served in D-Day. If I make it to 96, I hope I\u2019m as sharp as my Auntie Mum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"kayaking\" <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Paddling over kelp beds, seals fishing the rocky shoreline scooting past.<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Most of the trip back to Mexico was in smog from wildfires. Reaching Las Vegas, we could finally see more than a short distance \u2013 buildings on the Strip fading near sunset.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Vegas\" <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Still hazy in southern Nevada: the Vegas strip not so flashy in the smog.<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Near Term Plans<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

Work continues on Totem<\/i>. Priming complete: We\u2019ll look to move to the Cabrales paint shed for final painting once Jamie\u2019s awesome swim step project on the transom is done. And so, we slide back into shipyard life. Yesterday, that involved bringing the yard\u2019s security dog, Bonita, to the vet for a checkup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Kids <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Tring to convince Bonita to get in the car<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Annapolis! In October, we are booked for the Annapolis Boat Show: It\u2019s on! Jamie and I plan to teach in Cruisers University. All Cruisers U participants must be vaccinated and remain masked on site. I\u2019m looking forward to it, although social distancing will pain me as a natural hugger! The show is a great time to see friends, old and new, and we love the TRU crew meetup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Cruising Plans<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

Cruising plans are fuzzier. Is it possible to make cruising plans given all the uncertainty? It is. When I scroll through Noonsite\u2019s awesome mega-list of country status, most now say open. Yes\u2013Open! On their curated list for cruisers, 44 are currently closed, but 109 are open. Here\u2019s another way to put it in perspective: in the 48 countries encompassing our circumnavigation, only eight are currently closed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Future gazing is dangerous lately, but here\u2019s a view for setting out in North America currently.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Caribbean Cruising This Winter<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

Juggling a changeable series of restrictions and entry fees\/testing requirements takes some planning. But mostly, the Caribbean is open, even holdouts like BVIs. But even this past year, friends had a great season in the western Caribbean. A number of our TRU crew had a blast in the eastern Caribbean islands. They just moved less, or sucked up the cost of moving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

The simplest way this plays out, for those with restriction\/regulation fatigue? Fewer clearances and longer stays, which is what seems to organically occur to most cruisers anyway. And for those that need to be on the move, then maybe skewing plans towards countries where a single entry means more coastline\/islands\/bays to explore, like St Vincent & Grenadines assuages the wanderlust while mitigating the hassles and expense.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

South Pacific Sailing In 2022<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

Among all popular world cruising grounds, the South Pacific is the only one which remains overwhelmingly shut. Thanks to Delta, it seems just as unlikely to re-open now as it did in January: small, vulnerable countries have no incentive to tempt variants. Only Fiji is open. Fiji, where COVID cases are higher than ever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Port <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Current situation: no easy options after Fiji. How much will this change in the next year?<\/span>\n DPAM<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

In the current situation, there are no easy options after Fiji. How much will this change in the next year?<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Don\u2019t boats arrive in French Polynesia? A few; not many. French Poly has remained officially closed for sea arrivals since March 2020. At times, DPAM (maritime authority) has accepted applications to allow transit arrivals. Since February 3, 2021, applicants must demonstrate an imperative need, a \u201cmotif imperieux,\u201d to be approved.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

This imperative need is fulfilled in three ways: 1) overriding personal or family reasons; 2) an emergency health reason; 3) a professional reason which cannot be postponed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Transit <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n This full document is available online<\/a> to plug into Google translate.<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s a high bar, and one which touring cruisers overwhelmingly don\u2019t meet. Unfortunately, \u201cExperiencing the annual marbled grouper spawning in Fakarava\u201d or \u201cTaking surfing lessons on a perfect Society Islands wave\u201d will not be interpreted as professional reasons which cannot be postponed, much as I wish them to be. Hopefully the bar lowers!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

When Caribbean boats chatter about planning to go, I wonder if planning actually means spit balling over Kaliks in the cockpit vs. actually doing the work of researching the route. Unfortunately, it also means some straight-up intentions to deceive, such as a fake emergency \u201cforcing\u201d arrival. You can guess what I think about those folks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m grieving the probable loss of our South Pac plans. Jamie and I have time, and could go next year or five years from now! But at ages 19 and 17, we feel the clock ticking with Mairen and Siobhan aboard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

While we hope things will change for the better in the South Pac, but we\u2019re pragmatists, so are looking more at where we can go than where we can\u2019t. I still daydream about big passages to Hawaii, Guam, and then the Western Pacific and Asia. Who knows what will happen!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Dreamscape routes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

Hawaii\/Guam are open to us now\u2026 and with hopes for a southern route to follow. But another Plan B is exploring more of Central America. We\u2019d need to get cracking on shipyard projects for that seasonal timing to work in \u201822, though! We\u2019re not interested in spending lightning season in Costa Rica or Panama. Maybe El Salvador?<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

And if all this means I get more family hugs in?<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

#Winning!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Cards <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n What, cards AGAIN? hahaha! No opportunity missed with my awesome aunties.<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Grateful to love and be loved by these wonderful humans: the hardest part of the trip was wanting more time with them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Should Cruising Plans Be Postponed?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

Heck no!<\/b> The qualities that make cruising a fulfilling way of life haven\u2019t changed. We can have amazing experiences, meet interesting people, try delicious new food, and build great memories \u2013 even if it\u2019s not our Plan A (or even Plan B) route. Even if it means fewer border crossings due to cost\/hassle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Namibia\" <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n One among countless great memories: trading with fishermen in Namibia<\/span>\n Behan Gifford<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

There are always reasons not to go cruising: to postpone it a year here, a few years there. People who probably weren\u2019t ever going to go anyway can latch onto the pandemic for the current excuse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Still wondering. Check out the Salty Dawg Cruising Association\u2019s Cruising in the Time of COVID webinar<\/a> on Sept. 22. I\u2019m hopeful they will have useful information to guide individual decisions.<\/p>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The ongoing pandemic continues to create uncertainties for a sailing family, but COVID restrictions don\u2019t stop them from visiting friends and relatives back in the States.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":19808,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"BS_author_type":"BS_author_is_guest","BS_guest_author_name":"Behan Gifford","BS_guest_author_url":"","hydra_display_date":"20210908","hydra_display_updated":false,"_yoast_wpseo_primary_category":"165","_yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Behan Gifford catches up with family on a visit home to Washington and then returns with her husband and teenagers to Mexico, where they continue to work on Totem as they try and answer the vexing question of where to next?","_yoast_wpseo_title":"","_yoast_wpseo_meta-robots-noindex":"1","arc_story_id":"BA2WN7KDEVH3JJ4CSD6JYJEOOA","arc_website_url":"story\/people\/sailing-totem-uncertain-cruising-plans\/","custom_permalink":"story\/people\/sailing-totem-uncertain-cruising-plans\/","arc_subtype":"right-sidebar","arc_exclude_from_feeds":true,"sponsored":false,"sponsored_label":"Sponsored Content","sponsored_display_label":false,"sponsored_image":0,"post_right_rail":true,"post_right_rail_ad_1":true,"post_right_rail_ad_2":true,"post_right_rail_ad_3":false,"post_right_rail_ad_4":false,"post_right_rail_recirc":true,"fixed_anchor_ad":true,"post_top_ad":true,"post_off_ramp":true,"post_taboola":false,"labels":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_is_hidden":false,"apple_news_is_paid":false,"apple_news_is_preview":false,"apple_news_is_sponsored":false,"apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":"\"\"","apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[165],"tags":[196,1335,434,197,182],"acf":[],"apple_news_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/45435"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=45435"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/45435\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/19808"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=45435"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=45435"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=45435"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}