{"id":39908,"date":"2018-08-08T23:30:00","date_gmt":"2018-08-09T03:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/?p=39908"},"modified":"2023-05-06T16:56:51","modified_gmt":"2023-05-06T20:56:51","slug":"sailing-fiji","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/sailing-fiji\/","title":{"rendered":"Sailing Fiji"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"\" <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Sailing Fiji<\/span>\n Courtesy of Safari Charters Fiji<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Once upon a time, in what now feels like a former life, I visited a small village on a remote bay in Fiji. Daku village, on Kadavu Island, used to be frequented by a steady stream of cruising sailors in search of a deep connection to the local culture, though today, it seems to have dropped off of most Pacific cruisers\u2019 radars. Just an overnight sail away from the bustle of Fiji\u2019s main island of Viti Levu, Daku was full of happy memories for me of a time spent anchored off the village decades ago while I was cruising on Mahina Tiare, a 31-foot Hallberg-Rassy sloop.\nFor years, I\u2019d dreamed of returning, but time passed and life got in the way. Then a happy coincidence appeared in the form of an email from a friend who had recently visited Daku. She photographed my entry on the first page of the Daku yacht log. The entry was like a message in a bottle from my former self, reminding me that I\u2019d written in the logbook that I would return one day. My former cruising partner and \nI had started the log for our Daku friends, Epi and Kata Ravono, 25 years ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

With just this email, the plan for going back to Fiji was set in motion. But this time, since I no longer have a cruising boat, it would be on a charter boat<\/a> \u2014 my maiden charter experience as a passenger rather than crew or boat owner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

We chose a crewed charter aboard Stellar<\/em>, a 49-foot Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, which we found online. More than a simple vacation, I wanted to use this trip as a chance to introduce my partner, Bill; my sister, Pam; and my brother-in-law, Jim, to traditional Fijian culture and my long-ago Fijian friends. Stellar<\/em> was the magic carpet to transport us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"kava <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n The author, with the ceremonial offer of a kava bundle for the chief of Daku village.<\/span>\n Jim Clark<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Shortly after stepping aboard, we left Port Denarau, on the island of Viti Levu\u2019s west shore, and were comfortably motoring toward Tavarua Pass, destination: Daku village. Our Fijian crew \u2014 Julian May, the skipper; Eroni, our talented cook; and George, the friendly first mate \u2014 added immensely to our Fijian immersion over the ensuing week. And we, by sailing to a traditional village, were about to add to theirs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Steele Jones, Stellar<\/em>‘s Kiwi owner, recommended Julian to captain our charter because of his familiarity with Kadavu Island. Still, up until we stepped aboard, Steele tried to change our course. Thinking our proposed passage into trade winds would be too uncomfortable, he asked, “Are you sure you wouldn’t rather go to the nearby Mamanucas or Yasawas?”<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Forget discomfort! I thought.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

While napping on our long flight to Fiji, I\u2019d dreamed we were sailing to Kadavu and remarked to myself while asleep, \u201cOh, it\u2019s so calm.\u201d My dream turned out to be prophetic. The typical 12- to 16-knot east-southeast trades were not blowing that morning, so Julian suggested we make a beeline for Kadavu. We found Daku Bay on his chart plotter, and he entered the coordinates to the anchorage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Jeanneau <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Stellar<\/em> was the perfect platform for all the sailing, swimming, fishing and exploring that both guests and crew wanted to accomplish.<\/span>\n Courtesy of Safari Charters Fiji<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

The worldly Julian told us, “I grew up speaking English. I tried to learn Fijian in school but instead spent too much time mucking about in boats.” His passion for boats had taken him all over the world. Moreover, when The Moorings had a base in Fiji, Julian led the bareboat flotillas, including one with Cruising World<\/em> editors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\u201cI would be leading four or five boats, with a chase boat behind us,\u201d Julian said. \u201cI\u2019d tell them, \u2018Follow me. I know where the unmarked reefs are.\u2019 Once in a while, someone would wander off and end up on a reef. They\u2019d say, \u2018That reef isn\u2019t on the chart,\u2019 after they\u2019d hit it!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

This is the main reason that bareboat chartering in Fiji ended back in the mid-1990s. Since then, chart plotters, updated charts and excellent cruising guides have fortunately made it easier for cruising yachts to visit, and there are several options for crewed charters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

As we passed the world-renowned surfing spot Cloudbreak on our port side, it appeared as a translucent aqua band topped by thin, white spume, with surfers dotting its moving face. Behind, the dry, golden California-like hills of Fiji\u2019s Coral Coast on Viti Levu provided a backdrop contrast. It was the last we saw of any other pleasure boats or tourists for almost a week.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Just after we transited Tavarua Pass outside the reef, a fat blue-green yellowfin tuna hit one of our fishing lines and was quickly reeled in by the crew. Then, the singing of three nylon lines unspooling at once was followed by pandemonium as George, Bill and Jim simultaneously reeled in three 20- to 25-pound skipjack tunas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Epi <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Three generations of Epi and Kata\u2019s family join author Barbara Marrett and her family for a photo.<\/span>\n Barbara Marrett<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Zing! Another line spooled out as afternoon tea was served. Wahoo on the line! Jim fought to bring in the long-billed fish. We were motorsailing as a band of thick purplish clouds clustered low on the horizon to starboard. A squall hit suddenly with 20 knots of wind, and the rain felt like needles. As we flew along at 8 knots, another fish struck \u2014 this time a beautiful dorado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\u201cSix fish in four hours,\u201d I said. \u201cMaybe the villagers are praying for us.\u201d In truth, Julian was somewhat of a fish whisperer. This wasn\u2019t meant to be a fishing charter, but our Fijian crew loved to fish. The charter was becoming as much our crew\u2019s trip as ours, which was as it should be.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n

Just after we transited Tavarua Pass outside the reef, a fat blue-green yellowfin tuna hit one of our fishing lines.<\/p>\n\n<\/p>\n<\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n

Early the next morning, the engine’s rpm changed and sails were furled. I automatically shot up on deck. It was strange for me to sleep through most of the night and not stand watch. Years of cruising on Mahina Tiare<\/em> and teaching sail training on Alaska Eagle had ingrained in me the need to help on deck when something changed. I put on shoes, grabbed a flashlight and made my way forward to help Eroni as he lowered the anchor chain. I was \u00adincredulous that we passed through the unmarked reef in inky darkness!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Morning revealed our anchorage was actually outside the reef. Smart move, I thought. Julian admitted that he\u2019d never been into Daku Bay before and, wisely, he had entered the coordinates for the bay outside the complicated reef system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Epi\" <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Epi ferried everyone to a private beach for a picnic day.<\/span>\n Barbara Marrett<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Looking around in daylight, I felt like a cat, homing in on a familiar place after being lost for a long time. Slowly the shape and tropical texture of Kadavu\u2019s landscape stimulated long-ago memories.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Julian delivered fish to the village, and my old friend Epi arrived by motorized skiff to guide Stellar<\/em> to the anchorage and take my family into the village. Since it was low tide, it was best to rely on local knowledge to thread our way from the anchorage through the coral outside the village to land.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Epi\u2019s hair was now white, his \u00addemeanor a bit more serious, but his hillside gardens have kept him fit, and his mind was as curious as ever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

As we padded barefoot into the village, the bright-green ground cover was deliciously cool, spongy and soft. The village seemed charmed. The dozen or so houses were shaded by lush mango and big-leafed breadfruit trees. Chickens and roosters ran freely alongside a sow and her nine frisky piglets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

While many small Fijian villages are now deserted, Epi and Kata\u2019s family and the whole village of Daku are thriving. Out of a population of 74, Daku has 30 children. The family had grown from five to 10 living in their home, which had doubled in size. They now offer the occasional rustic home stay to tourists, many of whom wish to experience traditional village life while staying at the nearby Papageno Resort. They are also visited once a year by the South Pacific Study Program for village stays; Epi was hired to give lectures on ecotourism to the group.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"logbook\" <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n On Barbara’s first visit to Daku, Epi and Kata signed Mahina Tiare<\/em>‘s logbook and included a photo.<\/span>\n Barbara Marrett<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Epi loaned Jim and Bill sulus (Fiji’s version of a sarong) to participate in sevusevu<\/em> in the chief’s house. Sevusevu<\/em>, a formal welcome and permission to visit the village, was also a blessing for our village stay. Any visit to a traditional Fijian village, to be proper, should include sevusevu<\/em>, which involves gifting the chief a half-kilo bundle of kava.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Sevusevu<\/em> completed, Epi’s wife, Kata, was as welcoming and busy as I recall. Her rustic kitchen now had running \u00adwater part of the day and a propane stove, but she still preferred cooking over a wood fire. They also now had a generator, electric lights and a DVD player, but overall, the peaceful village vibe hadn’t changed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"logbook\" <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n This trip to Fiji was inspired by the entry Barbara made in the logbook she started in 1989 for sailors visiting the village.<\/span>\n Barbara Marrett<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

Dinner ashore was a treat, although sitting on the cool woven pandanus mats on Epi and Kata\u2019s floor was easier in my 30s. Everything, from the coconut milk to the kumquat jelly and juice, was made from scratch. The fish in ginger-and-\nsoy gravy was caught by hand, and the \u00advegetables and limes were grown in Epi\u2019s garden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

When the tea made from lemon leaf was poured, I exclaimed, \u201cDrau-ni-moli tea!\u201d Everyone was surprised I remembered the name. I\u2019d shared many meals with Epi and Kata when we were young and their children were small. Now Epi Jr. is married, and he and his wife, Wati, live in the house, along with his sister, Maraia, and her three daughters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Epi invited Stellar<\/em>‘s crew to drink kava that evening and warned them to “come prepared.” The men spent hours drinking and laughing as the coconut cup was passed around the ancient wooden kava bowl.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Kadavu is famous for growing Fiji\u2019s best kava. It\u2019s prepared the traditional way, using long strands of shredded bark, instead of cloth, to strain the root bits out of the mud-colored, medicinal-\u00adtasting liquid. Our crew, Eroni and George, savored its strength. Jim and Bill not so much! Julian remained on board to catch more fish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n

Kata\u2019s rustic kitchen now had running water part of the day and a propane stove, but she still preferred cooking over a wood fire.<\/p>\n\n<\/p>\n<\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n

While the men drank on the veranda, darkness settled in. Inside, a bag of bootleg DVDs emerged and 21 children silently filed in to watch. Pam and I were on the floor among a sea of nut-brown faces, watching the movie Pitch Perfect. It seems projectile vomiting is funny in any culture! At 8 p.m., all the children silently filed out \u2014 Epi\u2019s rule on school nights.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Bill and I slept ashore in the guest room on a comfortable mattress, while the family slept in separate rooms on pandanus mats. We quietly tiptoed out at night. The stars were brilliant in the velvet bowl of the sky, and Kadavu parrots squawked from a towering 300-year-old banyan tree. I couldn\u2019t help reflecting \u2014 the tree has stood sentinel as Daku\u2019s fierce warrior culture was transformed into today\u2019s peaceful, cellphone-carrying Christian village.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

At 4 a.m., the village roosters started a fierce crowing competition by our window, and two hours later, the family joined together to pray outside our door.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Kata <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Kata takes a little break on the porch while her grandchildren play in the tanoa, a bowl used to make kava.<\/span>\n Barbara Marrett<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

It was picnic day, so we all piled into Epi\u2019s skiff. He sat on the bow, looking back, with his granddaughter, little Kata, in his lap \u2014 a big grin on his face as he surveyed his family and guests. We disembarked on the family\u2019s deserted beach. As if by magic, Epi quickly built a fire to cook cassava root and then weaved a basket out of a green palm frond to transport coconuts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

While we snorkeled nearby, a colorful bolt of fabric was rolled out on the sand. Mahimahi, red snapper curry and tuna in gravy were laid out along with bele leaves (Fijian spinach). Stellar\u2019s crew arrived with chicken curry and rice \u2014 thankfully, because everyone, including Epi\u2019s family, seemed tired of eating fish. The village\u2019s chicken and pork were reserved for special occasions, such as weddings and funerals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

We stayed an intense and memorable few days at Daku. They would have liked for us to stay longer to see dancing and to teach us tapa cloth making, but we felt the need to move on. Kata was suffering from a painful mouth infection while still managing a household of 10, without the benefit of even a clothes washer! As her guests, we were acutely aware that we were adding to her burden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

\n\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\"Map <\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n
\n Kadavu Island is off the beaten path for most cruising sailors.<\/span>\n Map by Shannon Cain Tumino<\/span>\n\n\t\t\t\t <\/figcaption>\n <\/section>\n\t\t\n\n\n\n

As we departed the beach, tears welled in my eyes and glistened in Epi\u2019s and Kata\u2019s too. Our respective islands are separated by 5,800 miles of ocean. I took solace in that perhaps the next generation of Marretts and Ravonos will meet and continue this story. I left Daku with the hope that cruisers will again experience the magic of this village, and add their names to the yacht log started years ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

For the rest of our weeklong cruise, Julian slowly reintroduced us to civilization until our final night\u2019s barbecue at Musket Cove, a busy cruisers hangout. Not only was Julian an excellent skipper, he was an astute judge of his clientele\u2019s desires.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

A charter was the perfect way to revisit Fiji during this season of my life and share a taste of the cruising life with my family. And, not being responsible for sailing, cooking or provisioning allowed me to fully relax and enjoy the adventure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Barbara Marrett has been a contributing editor to Cruising World since 1993. Mahina Tiare, Pacific Passages, her and John Neal\u2019s South Pacific adventure book, is now available as an e-book from amazon.com<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Why Charter in Fiji?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

Taxis, crewed charters, provisions and fine-quality native carvings and crafts are more affordable in Fiji than in French Polynesia or the Caribbean. The reefs in general are in good shape, other than the recent isolated damage from 2016\u2019s cyclone Winston, and \u00adprovide world-renowned snorkeling and scuba diving just over the side of your boat. Fiji offers incredible variety \u2014 you\u2019ll find lush mountains with rivers and waterfalls; deserted coral islands and semi-sophisticated towns; and good shopping, museums, a university, ornate \u00adHindu temples and exotic East Indian restaurants. The culture is more intact than most tropical cruising areas, and it\u2019s possible to see the \u00adtraditional way of living among very friendly people.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Practicalities<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

The best time to visit Fiji is May to November, when the southeast trade winds blow, \u00admaking it cooler and drier than the summer months and avoiding cyclone season. Pick up a free Mariners Guide to Fiji at any marina; it\u2019s updated annually. Find it online at fijimarinas.com.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n

Resources<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n

Safari Charters Fiji (Stellar):<\/strong> fijisafari.com<\/a>\nFiji Weather:<\/strong> met.gov.fj <\/a>\nPractical information:<\/strong> noonsite.com\/Countries\/Fiji<\/a><\/p>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A cruising sailor returns to a favorite island in Fiji 25 years later.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":30971,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"BS_author_type":"BS_author_is_guest","BS_guest_author_name":"Barbara Marrett","BS_guest_author_url":"","hydra_display_date":"20180808","hydra_display_updated":false,"_yoast_wpseo_primary_category":"162","_yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"25 years after her first visit, and this time on a chartered boat, a cruising sailor heads back to a remote village in Fiji to reconnect with old friends.","_yoast_wpseo_title":"Sailing Fiji %%sep%% %%sitename%%","_yoast_wpseo_meta-robots-noindex":"","arc_story_id":"D2HB5MS3QDDLW5LMPTCNR4P3CY","arc_website_url":"sailing-fiji\/","custom_permalink":"sailing-fiji\/","arc_subtype":"right-sidebar-full-header","arc_exclude_from_feeds":false,"sponsored":false,"sponsored_label":"Sponsored Content","sponsored_display_label":false,"sponsored_image":0,"post_right_rail":true,"post_right_rail_ad_1":true,"post_right_rail_ad_2":true,"post_right_rail_ad_3":false,"post_right_rail_ad_4":false,"post_right_rail_recirc":true,"fixed_anchor_ad":true,"post_top_ad":true,"post_off_ramp":true,"post_taboola":false,"labels":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_is_hidden":false,"apple_news_is_paid":false,"apple_news_is_preview":false,"apple_news_is_sponsored":false,"apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":"\"\"","apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[162],"tags":[169,650,205,434,241],"acf":[],"apple_news_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/39908"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=39908"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/39908\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/30971"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=39908"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=39908"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cruisingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=39908"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}