As many a seasoned boat owner can attest, onboard systems are the leading cause of technical issues on boats that have more than a rudimentary electrical system. But most of these problems are preventable. They arise from a failure to abide by core design and installation principles.

To take a deep dive into both design and installation issues, OceanPlanet Energy (OPE) is sponsoring an intensive two-day seminar developed and presented by tech guru Nigel Calder, author of the best-selling Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual.

The seminar is grounded in the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards for safe installations, though it is not an ABYC class because, according to Calder: “You can have a safe installation that nevertheless functions poorly. We will go beyond the standards to explain how to optimize performance.”

Topics include key design criteria for both DC and AC systems; how to keep batteries in a healthy state; newer technologies that are transforming the performance of electrical systems; sizing and installing electric circuits in compliance with ABYC standards; critical safety issues related to AC systems; corrosion; and grounding systems. The course curriculum will highlight commonly seen electrical installation errors, including on new boats, and how to rectify them—including hands-on terminal crimping practice, because “poorly made terminals are the bane of many an otherwise decent electrical installation.”

Calder will showcase a demonstration board that contains core pieces of equipment referenced in the presentation, which, in tandem with related equipment supplied by OPE, will be used to simulate electrical faults and explore multimeter troubleshooting techniques.

“We’ll be covering a lot of ground,” says Calder, who acknowledges the difficulty in absorbing such a volume of information in two days. “While the seminar is designed to be accessible to the inexperienced, that doesn’t mean it will be easy, even for those with prior experience, including some professionals.” 

Class sizes will be limited to maximize interaction with the participants. At a minimum, participants should walk away with the ability to check a boat for common installation mistakes, to understand and be able to do basic wiring and electrical installations, and to be able to safely conduct simple multimeter troubleshooting procedures that will enable most electrical problems to be identified.

“We send everyone home with a to-do list of critical checks for any boat, and a deck of almost 600 slides for future reference. The objective is to raise the confidence levels of boat owners, and to provide professionals with a perspective that goes beyond ABYC standards to optimized functionality.”

OPE will hold the seminars in the spring and fall (April 17-18 and October 29-30, 2024), just outside of the main tourist season, in the newly renovated Hyatt Place hotel in downtown Portland, Maine. The Hyatt is situated in the center of the vibrant old district, surrounded by historic buildings, with excellent restaurants and numerous places of interest within walking distance. The hotel has a free shuttle service to and from the easy-to-transit Portland (Maine) regional airport. Buffet-style breakfast is included in the seminar’s discounted room rate. OPE will provide lunch and refreshments throughout the day. Seminar participants are on their own for dinner.

To take advantage of this unique opportunity to hone your systems skills under the guidance of expert Nigel Calder, participate in a strictly limited and intense marine electrical education opportunity, and enjoy Portland, Maine, in the spring, contact OceanPlanet Energy for more information at seminar@oceanplanetenergy.com.

The post Sharpen Your Knowledge of Boat Electrical Systems appeared first on Cruising World.

My old Caribe Hypalon RIB dinghy had started to deflate, so I used a soapy-water spray to test for leaks. The forward-chamber air valve was leaking—not around the perimeter, where they normally do, but instead from inside the valve, indicating that it was not making an airtight seal. 

I tried to clean the inside with a cotton ball and liquid soap, and that did reduce the bubbles a little, but not entirely. I also fitted a second sealing washer on the valve cap and squeezed it tight up to the valve face, but the boat still deflated over a few days. “You’ve got to replace the valve,” someone told me. 

It was not what I wanted to hear, but off I went. I bought a Halkey-Roberts air valve from Amazon. It consists of an inner valve and an outer casing that screw together, clamping the valve to the chamber. I couldn’t loosen the old valve by hand, but I managed it after buying a wrench that fits inside the valve, enabling more turning force. It is best to do this with the boat inflated, which offers more solid support.

After fully deflating the boat, I gripped the inner valve body through the thick Hypalon ­material to prevent it from dropping into the chamber. Then I unscrewed the valve. I had the new part ready to screw back in, but after repeated attempts, it simply would not screw into the old body.

I struggled to hold the valve body with one hand while examining the old and new outer valves. The threads on the new valve were much finer than the threads on the old one. There was no way the new valve would thread into the old body. 

Apparently, there are different types of Halkey-Roberts valves. With cramps setting into my fingers, I finally had to let go of the body. It fell into the depths of the chamber.

I called Halkey-Roberts in St Petersburg, Florida, and learned that they altered the valves more than 10 years ago. I asked if they could sell me an old one. Nope. They said I had to figure out how to fit the new body inside and screw it into the new outer valve.

This is decidedly easier said than done. The hole in the chamber is only 1¾ inches in diameter, and the valve rim is 2½ inches. There is no way the old valve will come out, or the new piece will go back in. The aperture is simply too small.

Looking for help online, I was dismayed to learn that the only way to get the new valve body inside the chamber was to slit a hole big enough to get a hand through, and then hold the body in place while screwing the two halves together. This means that anyone with an older boat that has Halkey-Roberts valves will have to replace a leaking one by slitting and patching the chambers.

 More online research taught me that Hypalon requires a special two-part glue to bond a patch to the material. I bought a glue kit for $48.95, which is the most expensive glue I have ever bought in my life, plus another $38.95 for a 12-inch-square piece of patching material. So, along with $10.23 for the new valve and $9.45 for the wrench, the total came to $107.58.Quite an expensive leak.

I started the operation by donning rubber gloves and using acetone to remove blue paint from the dinghy. The work area was soon back down to the original gray material. Then, feeling like a surgeon about to perform the first incision on a very fat person, I used an X-Acto knife to cut a 6-inch-long slit in the dinghy chamber. My wife, whose arms are thinner than mine, reached in, found the old valve body in the bottom of the chamber, and brought it out. Holding the new valve, I then shoved my hand in, and managed to offer it up to the valve hole just below. I then screwed the two halves together and fastened them as tightly as I could using the special wrench, forming an airtight seal—I hoped. 

I was told not to use any sealant—such as glue or silicone—between them, but instead just to screw them together, dry and tight.

All of this was relatively painless (after making the first incision, that is), but now came the job of patching the slot to make it airtight. The instructions with the glue were precise, with six specific operations. 

The first directive warned that the humidity level should not be above 60 percent. With North Carolina suffering a heat wave that week, I waited, along with the dinghy, which was deflated and forlorn in my garage.

I made the cut in the top of the chamber, and there was nothing to support it inside, so I pressed two strips of duct tape under the cut seam inside the chamber to pull it together temporarily. I then smeared a thin layer of marine Goop glue along the cut and let it dry. This glue is ideal for flexible material because it stays quite flexible itself. I didn’t see any need to remove the Goop because even this weak seal allowed the chamber to inflate slightly, giving me some support as I prepared the patch.

On the first cool, low-­humidity day, I cut a patch out of the piece of Hypalon ­material, making it 1 inch larger all around the slit, and with rounded edges at both ends. 

I prepared the surface of the chamber by roughing it with 80-grit sandpaper, exactly as instructed. I then poured some of the adhesive into a glass container and added the curing agent. This was pretty much guesswork because I had no way to measure the glue. One thing the instructions don’t mention is the type of container to mix the two parts in. Do not use a plastic or styrene cup because the glue will dissolve it. I used an old glass jar, which let me see how much glue was being poured.

Applying the glue is a two-part process. First, a thin layer is applied to the joint and the patch, which I did with a ½-inch-wide, stiff throwaway brush. I then allowed both pieces to dry. Half an hour later, a second coat is applied to both parts. After a few minutes, when the glue is tacky, the patch is glued to the boat. I did this by rolling the patch over the slit from one end to the other to reduce the chance of air pockets. The partially inflated tube allowed me to use enough pressure on the roller to expel any air pockets. 

After an hour, I could feel the excess glue beginning to set, so I inflated the chamber a little more. To my surprise, no air came out of the patch or the new valve. 

The next directive was to let the patch cure for at least 24 hours. I left mine for 48 hours, then inflated it to the recommended pressure of 3 psi. I also couldn’t resist testing the new valve with the soapy water. To my intense relief, it did not bubble at all, nor were there any bubbles around the patch. 

The glue fully cures after six days, but I left my boat for a week before hoisting it back on the davits of my 50-foot schooner, Britannia. As I write this, the RIB has maintained pressure for a month, but it does vary a bit with the weather. It softens a little at night when the air is cooler, and then firms up during warm days. 

This was another job that I had never done before and managed it myself. Not only is success gratifying, but I save a lot of money and learn the intricate workings of my boat, which might someday be a lifesaver at sea.

Roger Hughes is a professional captain, sailing instructor, restorer and happy imbiber.

The post Dinghy Valve Repair on a Budget appeared first on Cruising World.

Over the years that I have owned Britannia, my 50-foot brigantine schooner, I have fitted as many systems as I could afford, all to make handling the 22-ton boat easier. One major addition has been to convert all sails to roller furling and route the control lines back to self-tailing winches on either side of the companionway. Inevitably, this meant a lot of winch winding, so I soon began to think about electric winches—until I looked at the prices.

A considerably cheaper alternative is an electric winch winder, which effectively converts all winches to electric. I now have the latest device on the winch-winder market, the superbly engineered Powerwincher.

The Powerwincher’s significant design advantage is the drive spigot, which is located centrally. The tool “sits” in a winch with a nice, balanced feel. The Powerwincher looks big, but the turning circle is still the same as a manual winch handle, so it doesn’t interfere with anything else in the cockpit.

The battery compartment is forward of this pivot point, giving the Powerwincher a solid, counterbalanced feel when it’s winding. Newton’s third law states that for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. This opposite-reaction force can be quite strong when a wincher is winding hard, but on the Powerwincher, you can grip the red battery lid with your free hand, for extra leverage. 

Powerwincher is hefty, but it won’t ever be carried far from one winch to another, and the moment it is popped into a winch, the balanced weight becomes a stabilizing advantage. The reasons for the weight are the solid stainless-steel internal construction and the heavy, powerful electric motor. 

The controls are all clearly marked. A power switch activates the machine, but does not start it turning. The speed control knob adjusts the rotational speed, up to 100 rpm. A toggle gives clockwise and counterclockwise rotation. A large, round knob locks the machine in a winch. 

Most important: The button that makes the Powerwincher come alive is atop the hand lever. Other winders have speed controls built into the handle, and if Newton’s opposite reaction kicks in, it is natural to grip the handle tighter, which can inadvertently increase the speed—exactly when you don’t want it to. Taking your thumb off the start button on the Powerwincher stops it instantly.

Another major advantage is the power pack. Powerwincher is designed to work with a regular 18-volt Milwaukee lithium-ion battery, or with most lookalikes. The machine is sold minus a battery, which is fine for anyone with Milwaukee tools. They can use existing batteries. A Milwaukee battery and charger combo is on the web for around $90, and lookalikes with two batteries and a charger are about $80. Two batteries are advisable for any wincher, because as one runs down, it can be quickly replaced.

Winch-winding devices are primarily intended for use on self-tailing winches, but if an assistant tails the line off a non-self-tailer, the operation is simplicity itself.

Powerwincher will spin a winch faster and for a lot longer than even the strongest crew member can sustain. It’s useful for men, women and children alike. It will haul up any mainsail or jib in a jiffy. If you have roller-furling sails, it will rapidly reef or furl a large main, jib or genoa. 

If you don’t have an anchor windlass, or only have a hand-cranked one, you can run the rode back to a mast winch, or use a rope and chain claw to haul the chain. Now, you have a powerful electric windlass. 

If you hoist your dinghy on davits using winches or tackles, you can forget that slow, twin-hauling torture. Run the hoists to a winch—even if that means extending the hoisting lines to a cockpit winch—and this tool will have the dink up in no time, even with the outboard attached.

Another way to use the Powerwincher is in manual assist mode. When pressing the start button, wind the handle at the same time, like you would with a manual handle. The contra-rotating force will reduce.

When using any winch-winder in a horizontally mounted winch, like on a mast, it is important that the drive spigot locks into the winch, like regular handles. If it is not locked, then the inch-long spigot could slip out of the winch socket. I know this from experience. There is also an eye pad to attach a lanyard as a safety precaution. 

A storage cradle comes with the Powerwincher and can be mounted in the cockpit. You can also transfer this tool from boat to boat. The warranty is for two years.

At time of press, a Powerwincher with cradle is around $1,440 (powerwincher.com) including delivery from Australia. The price without a cradle is $1,350.

The post You’ve Got the Power appeared first on Cruising World.

In 1986, David Robertson embarked on a journey to meet the demand for a practical, lightweight, hard-shell rowing dinghy that promised ease in launch and retrieval. Little did he know that the inaugural “Ultralite,” crafted for his family, would trigger a wave of interest leading to the establishment of Gig Harbor Boat Works. Over thirty-five years since the launch of the pioneering 8-foot Ultralite, Gig Harbor Boat Works has evolved, diversifying its offerings and necessitating a move to larger, modern facilities.  

The original Ultralite sparked such enthusiasm that, after showcasing it at the Seattle Boat Show, Robertson received over two dozen orders, officially marking the inception of Gig Harbor Boat Works. Today, the company boasts a diverse lineup of ten distinct boats, ranging from lightweight tenders to standalone rowing and sailing vessels, including the versatile 17-foot Salish Voyager designed for multi-purpose adventures.

To accommodate the growing popularity and diversity of their boats, Gig Harbor Boat Works is set to unveil a new 12,500 square-foot, state-of-the-art factory in Gig Harbor. This centralized production facility will bring together the entire production process, from lamination and assembly to administrative offices, ensuring seamless operations and enhanced efficiency.  

Falk Bock, production manager at Gig Harbor Boat Works, is optimistic about the move, stating, “With our production team working together in one location, we can build boats more efficiently without compromising the quality and attention to detail we are known for.”  

Gig Harbor Boat Works seamlessly melds traditional design with modern construction techniques, offering ten small craft models ranging from 8 to 17 feet in length. The boats, based on traditional working designs, can be customized to meet specific requirements, including gelcoat colors, keel strips, wood trim, sliding rowing seats, and more.

Upon the new factory’s operational launch, the original facility will transform into a customer-friendly showroom and delivery center. Katie Malik, general manager of Gig Harbor Boat Works and daughter of founder David Robertson, expresses excitement about the expansion, noting, “We are excited about the capabilities our new facility provides. Not only can we build more boats to keep up with growing demand, but by expanding our marketing efforts we can reach out to new folks that may not have known all that our boats have to offer.”

The post Gig Harbor Boat Works Expands Operations appeared first on Cruising World.

I routinely encounter defects related to design, materials and assembly in raw-water plumbing systems on cruising vessels. These defects could, and sometimes do, lead to flooding and the total loss of vessels. Here’s a look at the three most common examples of these defects.

The Un-Seacock

Seacocks let crew stem water flow quickly and easily, either for routine service or in the event of a failed hose or fitting or other raw-water emergency. These valves must be readily accessibleand able to operate with relative ease. “Readily accessible” means no tools are needed to access a seacock, nor should a significant quantity of gear need to be moved.

One of the most common of seacock errors involves mismatched threads. Through-hull fittings, sometimes called “skin” fittings, are nearly always made using parallel, straight or NPS threads, while most inline ball valves use tapered or NPT threads. The two are wholly incompatible, and yet I encounter this dangerous assembly practice on a regular basis, on new and old vessels alike. The mismatch leads to a scant two or three threads of engagement compared with a proper seacock with matching threads, which yields eight to 10 turns.  

Underrated Hose

The average cruising ­vessel might use more than a half-dozen types of hose, from fuel and waste to potable-water exhaust. Hose used for raw water, especially below the waterline, should be specifically designed for the application.  

The most common rated raw-water hose carries an SAE J2006 rating (it’s usually a black composition called EPDM, although it can be red or blue silicone). This type of hose is suited for marine wet-exhaust systems. It’s robust. 

With few exceptions, what’s typically not suited for raw water is most clear PVC hose, even if it’s reinforced with nylon filament or spiral (some of these are designed for the food-service industry). 

When I confront builders and yards with clearly noncompliant hose, they frequently ask me, “What makes this hose a problem?” My response is simple: “Is this hose approved for an application where if it fails, a vessel could sink?”  

Furthermore, if the hose easily crushes or kinks, especially when it’s warm, then it’s not suitable for raw water, and it’s especially ill-suited for intake or suction applications.

Wrong Alloy

Only a handful of metal alloys are suited for raw-­water plumbing use. Bronze, which is made primarily from copper, tin and, usually, traces of silicon and other metals, is highly corrosion-resistant for raw-water applications. However, there’s bronze, and then there’s bronze.

Manganese bronze and Tobin bronze, for instance, can include an appreciable quantity of zinc, technically placing them in the brass family. This makes them entirely unsuitable for raw-water plumbing. Any copper alloy that contains more than 15 percent zinc is technically brass and ­therefore should not be used for ­raw-water plumbing.  

Using high zinc-bearing alloys often leads to dezincification, in which zinc corrodes from the alloy, leaving behind a porous, ­weakened structure with a telltale pinkish hue.

Some builders use brass through-hulls and seacocks, with the caveat that they must be bonded and cathodically protected with anodes. This approach is flawed and has led to flooding and vessel loss. Forgetting to replace a zinc should not lead to seacock failure. Barring stray-current corrosion, seacocks, through-hull fittings and other metallic raw-water plumbing should last the life of the vessel. Stainless steel, even 316, while corrosion-­resistant, does not possess the level of corrosion resistance of bronze. This does not prohibit the use of stainless steel for this application, but it is a clear second choice to bronze.   

A nonmetallic option such as glass-reinforced nylon for seacocks and through-hulls, which complies with American Boat and Yacht Council standards, is also an acceptable alternative. 

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

The post Raw-Water Plumbing Tips appeared first on Cruising World.

Dockmate, manufacturer of advanced wireless remote controls for yachts, has introduced the rollout of its new Dynamic Positioning System. The DPS solution has two operating modes: one mode for use on the open water and another mode to use for short periods of time in close quarters. In the open-water operating mode, DPS will use only the engines to keep the boat in its target position. It is ideal for short-handed crews, allowing the captain to step away from the helm to tend to mooring lines and fenders before entering a marina. In the close-quarters operating mode, DPS uses both the engines and bow and stern thrusters in concert to keep the vessel in its target position.

“We have spent a significant amount of time and research over the years to ensure that the Dockmate remote control system provides boaters with the best control of their vessels in some of the more stressful situations like docking and close quarters maneuvering,” said Dirk Illegems, President of Dockmate. “Whether you are entering a marina or waiting for a bridge or lock, holding your position while stepping away from the helm can be just as important as having fingertip control when pulling into a dock. Our customers have been looking for a Dynamic Positioning System and we are happy to deliver.”

Dockmate Positioning System is driven by an IMU unit (which includes a compass, accelerometer and gyroscope) and a DPS Receiver installed within the vessel, and connects to Dockmate GNSS antennas installed on the hardtop. It is designed for installation on any vessel with at least two engines and Dockmate compatible engine and thruster controls. DPS is easy to install and requires only a short calibration sea trial.

For boats with mechanical controls or hydraulic controls, Dockmate can still be installed with the installation of an electronic-to-mechanical interface system. Depending on the existing systems on the vessel, the Dockmate can connect to the engines through the digital CAN bus technology, through an analogue connection or via a gearbox interface directly to the gearbox solenoids. If Dockmate has to connect through a Gearbox Driver, Dockmate will only have gearshift control and no throttle control.

Dockmate also offers Dockmate Single, allowing, from any place on board, control of one engine, bow thruster, stern thruster, one or two anchor winches or windlasses, and horn with separate buttons.

The post Dockmate Introduces Dynamic Positioning System appeared first on Cruising World.

The most important word when jibing is control. The helmsperson, sail trimmers and entire crew need to be diligent. The mainsail boom will swing across the boat with great force if important steps are not taken. There are many cases of serious injuries to unsuspecting crew who were hit in the head by the boom, or who tumbled overboard with the rapid change of course.

By contrast, completing a successful jibe provides great satisfaction when executed with precision.  

The best time to jibe is when a boat is sailing at full speed. The force of the apparent wind on a sail is less when sailing swiftly, which makes steering easy. The reason to jibe is to head on a more direct course toward a desired destination, or to take advantage of a shift in wind.

In advance of a jibe, one person, who is usually steering, should hail the crew about the intention to jibe. This is the proper time to assign specific duties to each crewmember so that everyone is clear about their role during the jibe.  

Once in proper position, the crew should stand by for a countdown to the maneuver. The helmsperson should turn the boat slowly, leaving no one caught off guard. Verbally state the new course, and visually look at any references, such as objects on shore or other boats, to know where the boat will be heading after the jibe.   

The sail trimmer should trim in the sails as the boat makes the turn. This is particularly important with the mainsail. Keep the sail under control so that the boom doesn’t swing wildly across the deck. Trim in the mainsail as the boat turns, and let it out rapidly as the sails fill on the new course. Just before the mainsail swings over, the helmsperson should hail, “Heads!” This will alert the crew to keep their heads low. 

In heavy wind, the ­helmsperson can execute an S-course jibe. Just as the mainsail is swinging across, the helmsperson turns the boat briefly in the direction the mainsail is heading. This action depowers the wind’s force on the mainsail. Once the boat is on the new course, the mainsail can be eased out to its most efficient position. The course that is steered is the shape of the letter S.

In winds less than 10 knots, most boats will jibe through 70 to 90 degrees. In stronger winds, a boat will jibe through 60 degrees or less. In a good blow, I suggest easing off the boom vang and securing the traveler in one place before jibing. This will depower the pressure on the sails and the rig.   

The jibing process is more complicated when a ­spinnaker is being flown. If the ­spinnaker is symmetrical with a ­spinnaker pole, then the helmsperson should be particularly careful when steering. The foredeck crew needs to exert downward and forward pressure on the spinnaker pole to keep it under control as it is being rehooked to the mast.   

Avoid rapid turns. Give your crew adequate time to shift the spinnaker pole. The sail trimmer in the cockpit is positioned to keep the sail full. Good teamwork is the key.

In recent years, the asymmetrical spinnaker has become a popular sail. I find that inside jibes are generally more efficient. This is when the sail passes inside the fore-triangle. The sail trimmer eases out the old sheet so that there is plenty of line to trim on the new jibe. The turn of the boat is usually a little faster than when jibing with a symmetrical sail, but it should not be any faster than the sail trimmer can move the sail from one side of the boat to the other. Continue changing course smoothly and constantly when jibing with an asymmetrical spinnaker. A pause can cause the sail to wrap.   

I find it interesting how many modern yachts resort to roller furling systems to handle forward sails. This applies to headsails and staysails. The sail is simply rolled up before jibing and rolled back out after the jibing maneuver is complete.  

I suppose I could add a technique or two for schooners and other multimast boats.  For example, schooners set a gollywobbler between the masts. On some schooners, it is best to have two of these quadrilateral sails ready to set on either jibe. When it is time to change course and jibe, take down one and hoist up the other on the new jibe. You just need two sails. But that is a story for another day. 

5 keys to safe jibing

1. Give the crew ample warning that a jibe is about to take place.
2. Assign each crewmember a specific job.
3. Keep the mainsail under control; don’t let the boom fly across the boat.
4. Look for a reference point on land to head for on the new course.
5. Do not turn the boat too quickly.

Hall of Fame sailor Gary Jobson is a CW editor-at-large. 

The post How To Jibe Like the Pros appeared first on Cruising World.

Since their advent in the early 20th century, diesel engines have been refined to a state of near perfection. Most are robust, reliable and long-lived, provided they receive preventive maintenance, clean fuel, cooling water, and air for combustion. 

When they do fail, the problem can usually be traced to a handful of culprits: deferred maintenance (a deteriorated impeller or broken belt, for instance) or contaminated or interrupted fuel, with the latter including air ingestion, an electrical fault, or a design or manufacturing defect. 

This column focuses on fuel plumbing. Fuel is usually conveyed from the tank to the engine via flexible hose; in some cases, it’s via copper tubing. Any hose that’s used must be rated for marine fuel applications, including the ability to resist exposure to flame for a minimum of 2.5 minutes. Hose that meets this requirement is typically marked USCG A1. It should also include the name of the manufacturer, as well as the date it was manufactured. If any of this information is absent, particularly the A1 rating, then the hose is disqualified for use in a marine fuel application.

A section of flexible hose must be used between the tubing and the engine, and the tubing must be immobilized against engine vibration and gear shifting. For this transition location from metallic tube to hose, the interface cannot be direct. Put another way, the hose cannot simply be clamped over the tube. The tube must instead be flared, and a flare-to-hose fitting should be used. 

Termination of fuel hoses is most often achieved by using common pipe-to-hose adapters and hose clamps. While welcomed, double clamps are not required, at least where American Boat and Yacht Council compliance is concerned. 

In fuel-supply applications, double clamps should be used only if the adapter is long enough to support both clamps with room to spare. If the adapter is not long enough to support dual clamps, then a single (preferably solid rather than perforated) band clamp should be used.

One caveat where this practice is concerned: Some adapters are designed to be used without clamps. They are often differentiated from conventional adapters by a plastic collar. The barbs on these adapters are especially aggressive; if clamped, they can pierce the hose’s inner liner, leading to leaks and delamination, and interrupting the fuel supply. And these adapters can be used only with hose designed and labeled for the application. 

The other form of hose termination utilizes a clamped or swaged in-place fitting. Clamped or field-assembled fittings are available in brass and plated mild steel. Brass fittings are reasonably priced and corrosion-resistant. Mild-steel fittings are cost-effective but should be corrosion-inhibited after they are installed. When installing these fittings, a proprietary installation mandrel must be used to prevent damage to the hose liner, which could ultimately create a blockage. 

Swaged fittings require the use of a swaging tool, and thus are poorly suited for do-it-yourself projects. If you know the lengths you need and the end-fitting types, you can have a batch of hoses swaged by a commercial hose shop.

Fuel-fill hose must also be rated and marked for the application. It calls for an A2 rating. In this case, double clamps are not only recommended, but they are required for ABYC compliance. This is one of only two applications where double clamps are mandated, with the other being exhaust hose.

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

The post Monthly Maintenance: The Importance of Proper Fuel Plumbing for Diesel Engines appeared first on Cruising World.

With 345 gallons of fresh water, my 50-foot schooner, Britannia, has larger-than-­average tankage. The boat has two heads, each with a washbasin and shower, and a pressure pump as powerful as a house supply. Unfortunately, with ­only an 11-gallon hot-water tank, my hot water runs out quickly, especially if both showers are used at the same time. And if the hot runs out, you’re on your own, so to speak.

Britannia’s hot-water tank is the square Kuuma model, sold by just about everyone in the marine-supply business. Eleven gallons might sound like a lot to boats that have the smaller, 6-gallon version, but neither delivers its full capacity of hot water to a shower or sink faucet. This is because as the hot is drawn off, it is replaced with cold (ambient) from the boat’s tankage. This process dilutes the remaining hot, so by the time about half of the hot is used up, the rest is somewhat lukewarm. Of course, it helps to leave the electric element on, and even to run the engine to compensate for this loss, but that might not be practical every time.

This problem was exposed recently when we had four guests staying aboard who were new to boating. I had to explain (tactfully, of course) that they were on a boat, not in a house, and the hot water wouldn’t run endlessly. I suggested that only one morning shower should be taken at a time; otherwise, there would be a good chance of someone finishing with a cold rinse. It was embarrassing for me to have to admit that, even though my schooner has just about everything that a house has—a washer/dryer, freezer, fridge, air conditioning, 120-volt power in all rooms—it is woefully lacking in hot-water capacity. I therefore decided to look into rectifying the deficiency.

Another reason I wanted to increase the hot-water capacity was more personal. Britannia has a full-size bathtub in the aft cabin head. Many boats of Britannia’s size have bathtubs, but mine is not just any old tub; it has 10 power jets, making it a hot tub. The idea is to fill the bath with hot water now and again for a long soak. I actually consider this to be more important than the shower issue, because how many times do we have guests staying over and wanting dual morning showers compared with me enjoying a British pint in a massaging hot tub after a hard day’s work on the boat? 

For this, I needed to generate 50 gallons of water at a temperature of 102 degrees, and if that could be achieved, the shower problem would solve itself. (I only ever used the hot tub when tied up to a dock. Using it at anchor could be interesting when a big powerboat zooms past and bucket-loads of hot water slosh all over the floor.)

The heater supplied with this tub worked for only a few baths before burning out because it was intended to keep bathwater warm after it had been filled from a home’s hot-water tank. What I needed was a heater with enough power to heat a bath full of water from ambient cold to 102 ­degrees Fahrenheit. I learned that this could be achieved only with a 240-volt heater of considerable wattage.

My present marina berth has only one 120-volt, 30-amp outlet, so my first thought was, Could that somehow be converted to give 240 volts to run just a water heater? The answer, from much more knowledgeable electricians than me, was no. Not without the risk of blowing all the breakers in the marina.

I looked at propane-gas heaters, also called tankless water heaters. Those that are capable of supplying water at 102 degrees are quite large and need to vent their hot exhaust to the outside. Also, the boat has storage for only one propane tank, whose contents would be quickly used up.

INSTALLATION

To at least solve the shower problem, I decided to install a second 11-gallon water heater. I’d hoped, with two heating elements and double the engine calorifier capacity, that it would be enough to fill the bath. 

Britannia is a long-keel, full-volume hull with an amazingly deep 5-foot bilge stretching 27 feet from the stern gland to the chain locker, and housing all the other machinery as well. It is more like a long engine room than a bilge. The existing heater tank sat on a raised platform in this cavity. 

I removed the tank and its platform. Then I built a new one lower down in the bilge. I then positioned the new heater on top of the old one and piped them together in series. It was a welcome change to be able to work on the two tanks while they were sitting on the salon sole instead of having to hang upside down like a blind bat in some dingy cave. While doing this, I also replaced the electric immersion heater element, which was in the old tank when I bought it 12 years ago. 

Both units were then lowered into position using a tackle strapped to the overhead handrail supports. The engine’s hot-water outlet pipe was connected to “hot water in” on the lower tank, then from “hot water out,” it was connected to the top heater’s “hot water in,” then from “hot water out” to the return on the engine. This setup ensured a continuous flow of nearly boiling engine water pumped through both heat exchangers because water is heated in the tank in two conventional ways: from a 120-volt immersion heater ­element inside the tank, which takes about 20 minutes, and from hot water in the engine being pumped through heat exchanger coils inside the tank. Both methods can be used at the same time. Away from a dock, the boat’s 6.5 kW generator can also be used to produce 120 volts for the immersion heater element.

I also installed a stop valve on the engine-outlet pipe to close off the heater circuit and allow the engine to initially come to operating temperature more quickly. Ideally, valves should be installed at the engine fittings for both supply and return, to isolate the water heater and hoses, in the event of a leak.

Cold water from the boat’s freshwater tanks was pumped through the pressure pump to “cold water in” on the bottom unit, then from “hot water out” to “cold water in” on the top heater, and from “hot water out” to the hot water manifold, and from there to all the boat’s outlets, including both showers and the bathtub hot faucet. 

Britannia has two shore-power receptacles supplying two separate distribution panels. These split the load of some of the higher electrical draws, such as the twin AC units and the washer/dryer. I reconnected the original wiring and installed new wiring to the top heater through a breaker on the second panel. The reason for wiring the two heater elements separately is to balance the load over two panels, and to not overload the existing wiring to the original water heater.

In my present berth, with only one 120-volt supply, I use a splitter to interconnect these two panels, but if we go somewhere where there are two 30-amp outlets, I can plug them in separately. I also have a 50-amp plug and splitter for use where the larger amperage is available. Flexibility is integral on a boat with so much electrical demand.

THE DAY OF RECKONING

After all these shenanigans, both units were finally installed, wired and plumbed, and it was time to test my hydroelectrical engineering theories.

I first switched on both heater elements, and the gauge showed a discharge of 22 amps from the single 30-amp shore supply. I closed the shutoff valve, started the engine, and set it to run at 1,500 rpm, its normal cruising revs. When the engine reached its operating temperature of 180 degrees Fahrenheit, I opened the shutoff valve to allow hot engine water to be pumped through both calorifier tubes. I had to remind myself that the engine was now having to heat 22 gallons of water, which took 40 minutes. 

The thermostat on the heater elements is set at 140 degrees, and it’s nonadjustable. Therefore, when the engine raised the temperature above this temperature in the tanks, the electrical side switched itself off. I ran some hot water into one of the washbasins, and it was 178 degrees, so cold would need to be added for a shower. The increased capacity therefore solved the twin shower issue, but would it be enough to fill the bath with piping-hot water for a long soak? 

I opened the bathtub’s hot-water faucet fully, then watched and waited. Scalding-hot water crept slowly up the sides of the bath until water from the faucet slowly began to cool, as both tanks depleted their hot water. 

This was evidently running out faster than the engine and immersion heaters could reheat it. I let the cooling hot water continue to run in as it slowly lowered the overall temperature. The engine and electronics must have wondered what was happening to their valiant efforts to keep the water in the tanks at a steady temperature.

As the bath became almost full, the water was still too hot at 110 degrees, so I switched the hot tap off and cooled it to 102 degrees with the addition of cold water. 

I then climbed into the luxuriously warm water and switched on the jets. On the first speed, there is only moderate action, but on the second speed, it really belts it out and nicely massages an aching back. I even fitted a holder on the wall for my beer glass because it would be a major disaster to have that tip over, even if in a marina berth. 

When I installed the bath, I obviously needed a means of emptying it. For the showers, I fitted automatic, self-contained shower draining units in each head, incorporating a float switch and pump in a plastic box. This setup pumps shower water overboard about as fast as it comes in, so there is never much standing water during a shower. 

Draining 50 gallons was an entirely different issue, and it would have taken ages through the shower drain. I solved this by fitting a changeover valve in the bath drainpipe and a pipe leading to the large diaphragm bilge pump. With the valve switched to bath discharge, the pump emptied all 55 gallons in 10 minutes flat.

When we have been out sailing and motor back to our berth, the water is usually piping hot, solely through the engine calorifier. We now have loads of hot water for virtually endless showers and a nice bath. The total cost of this project was $450 for the second heater, $22 for a new heater element, and $42 for extra connector fittings—a total of $514. It’s a small price to pay for the luxury of lovely hot showers and a fully ­operational hot tub.

Editor’s note: For all water heaters that are plumbed to engines, the temperature of the domestic water can approach that of the engine coolant, which clearly can be dangerous. For that reason, these water heaters should be equipped with tempering valves to lower the water temperature to a safe level. (For more info: cruisingworld.com/how/dont-land-hot-water/)

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I’ve learned during my 35-year marine career that it’s easy to break the ice with boat owners by bringing up one of two subjects: anchor selection or fuel filtration. Here, I’ll discuss the latter.

Diesel engines require only a few elements to start and operate reliably: air, cooling water, compression and clean fuel. 

Air is rarely a problem. Air filters, if they’re present on marine diesels, rarely clog because there’s little dust at sea. Cooling water can be problematic, strainers might clog, and impellers do fail—but all of those are easily serviced. Compression can be controlled, to some degree, by ensuring that valve adjustments occur at scheduled intervals, to check piston-ring condition and wear. 

Fuel cleanliness, on the other hand, is almost entirely within the boat owner’s control, with proper filtration.

Primary Filters

The primary fuel filter—the one that the fuel encounters first as it travels from the tank to the engine—is the most critical line of defense against contamination. 

Fouling can take many forms, from water and the bacteria it supports to asphaltene, which is diesel fuel’s natural “dirt.” Primary fuel filters come in several forms; the one you choose should embody a few key features, including ease of maintenance, a large and see-through bowl, the ability to drain water quickly and easily, and readily available replacement filter elements. 

The filter must be sized to handle the engine’s fuel-flow rate, which is different from fuel consumption. Most diesel engines pump more fuel than they use, returning the excess to the tank, with the return serving as an injector cooling method. However, there’s nothing to prevent you from using a filter with a higher rating. In fact, there are advantages.  

Larger filters can hold more water, and their filter elements can retain more debris before becoming clogged. Equally as important: Larger filters are often easier to service, with a removable top lid, making them more desirable for ­virtually any installation.

Most primary filters let you select the micron rating of the element. Here’s where ­controversy often ensues. 

Engine and filter manufacturers are virtually universal in their guidance that the smallest filter-element rating, usually 2 microns, should be reserved for secondary filtration (the second filter encountered by the fuel as it passes from tank to engine). Primary-filter elements are typically 10 or 30 microns. Some people suggest using a 2-micron primary-filter element, believing that it will catch all fuel-born debris. These people also think that they’ll have to service only the more easily replaced primary filter, leaving the secondary element in reserve.  

In fact, this approach halves the effective filter-element surface area, making clogs more likely. Using the correct approach—a larger-micron element in the primary, and a smaller element in the ^­secondary—lets you segregate contamination by size. While clean 2 and 30 micron elements offer the exact same resistance to fuel flow (virtually none), the 2-micron element will clog faster as the primary filter. 

Primary-filter elements should be replaced when the filter’s vacuum gauge reaches about 5 inches of Hg (­mercury), or annually, ­whichever comes first.

Secondary Filters

Secondary filters are located after the lift pump. They’re nearly always mounted on the engine, are metallic with no plastic or clear-sight bowls, and are typically of the spin-on variety, although some use a sandwich design.  

Secondary filter elements are available from engine manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers. If you opt for the latter, make sure the filter is of the same micron rating as the original version, and of the highest-possible quality.  

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

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